Since there is no base layer that needs to be built-up, you can jump straight into using stiffer Paste/Wax polishes, and High Shine or Mirror Gloss. No worries. Good Morning Simon. If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. Are the Alden versions sufficiently versatile to wear with flannel, cords, and cavalry twill, maybe with an appropriate sports coat? Ive used Reship a couple of times before. I just received my pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them. Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. How would you compare those two brands in regards to quality, and value ? Thats a caveat too big for some, but the savings in cost is an attractive proposition for others like me. Anthony Jones: As long as you are aware of the cons, but still think the pros weigh over, give it a try. Or do you stay away from cordovan? Thanks. What about a suit lower down the formality scale, say a mid Grey flannel? In early June, I left them out when it rained a bit. I have been looking to buy Cordovan 8 Alden Full Strap.I have tried Steffan. Any idea if that actually works? Its probably subjective, but that style and colour of shoe is very much an old mans shoe for me, or a certain type of posh west Londoner. Hmm. But I wouldnt use black cream or polish yet. Whatever yours was, it probably wasnt made from shell cordovan leather. Cookie Notice I have a pair of Cordovan shoes from Crockett and Jones, and theyre well constructed, but a more snug fit than Aldens. Do you think that Alden or Edward Green have lasts for loafers which can fit with wide feet ? Not necessarily size up from my normal size, but if I was unsure at all, or felt I was between sizes, then picking the larger one. It was a great decision in that the loafers look lovely. Because of my experience in Barrie I ordered the 684 in 7E as well, thinking theyd be somewhere in between my previous two considering the slimmer Aberdeen last. I think that shows how Alden from a make point of view is really mid-range or lower the expectations get rather inflated outside the US by the prices, and particularly the extra price of cordovan. Tony. But if you find you have some scratches that you want to remove immediately, and if the. Sometimes, the people that do so like many farmers Ive met have more respect for the animals than anyone else. I do have dark raw indigo jeans,olive and khaki chinos and real mccoys beige chinos and later would add ecru jeans. Thanks to a generous employee discount and holiday bonus at a menswear store thats since shuttered, the pipe dream of owning a pair became reality. Dont think Im the only good source about cordovan though . I know its fine for the vast majority of makers and people, but that doesnt necessarily mean it will work for him and you. I find it hard to describe as you can tell. PS.Thanks for the lovely article. No problem at all. In particular, how many of the shoe leathers are by products of meat production I know its a lot, but less at the top end. I found this pair of Aldens in our archives shortly after I started back at the tannery full time - sometime in early 2009. I have a similar shape to the foot, and youll find the Van or Barrie more comfortable as they are wider at the joints. Thanks for another wonderful article! I think you could get either snuff suede or cordovan in that case. You can minimize the likelihood, but can never 100% prevent it. Too much product becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt. I think it is really unique and pleasing to my eye because of the short vamp. Bravo. Have you got them stretched by cobbler? Ignoring any particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from cordovan? Wouldnt you say that a black cordovan loafer is more casual than a black calf one, and perhaps comparable to a black suede one? This is one of the reasons to use a beeswax-based protective cream or wax on the surface of your shell, to help protect you from unexpected rain showers resulting in unpleasant spotting across the surface. Its usually mostly a combination of availability and then fashion. In terms of patina, the range of tones goes from a deep burgundy to mahogany that I find really appealing. Any particular reason why you sized up in these Aldens? What is your take on Crockett and Jones Bradford (Cordovan). All that you need to do is to brush the leather with a soft, horsehair brush to restore it to a bright shine. Sid and I have talked for a while about doing something. Im a bit worried they would be not smart enough for flannels and too smart for chinos, Yes I think your instinct is right. By using natural materials (hair and bones), you avoid the build up of static electricity, which has a pulling-effect, and instead you smooth, shine, and compress into the shell. 379X Military Last. You can see this on some full horserump/horse breech hides, which has the whole grain and the shell left. Shell cordovan is prized for its beauty and durability, but with a painful break-in period and steep price tag, is the so-called king of leather worth the fuss? Its generally not possible to do much. I live in Atlanta but regularly travel to NY for work and have been trying to plan a work trip for next week to coincide with the NY pop-up; sadly I dont think it will work out but will hopefully get an opportunity next time in NY or London. Some water spots become more difficult to remove if you dont address them quickly. Im not. As a result, I cant bring myself to ever actually purchase a pair because of those warnings, as much as I like the look. If were talking about just cordovan in Color 8 colour, then: 1) To an extent, though I think the brown has to be pretty dark But if you like the latter just as much, maybe that works better for you. Thanks Simon, that is a very important point you make and something Ill need to research, while my mind is still conflicted, that would be the starting point. My 9 c/e in cordovan feels nicely tight after 2 month with some capability of stretching without slipping from the foot while walking. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden. That would have helped keep that upper smoother. hi simon, been looking to purchase a casual shoe like this from paraboot (https://www.paraboot.com/en/men/boat-shoes/barthmarine-marron-america) and will be my first foray into this colour. However, Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper. Both made bespoke for me 21 years ago. Remember its already pretty oily. Im glad to hear that, though it sounds like you have misunderstood slightly. My C&Js are already quite snug fit and are all made of calf skin. My pair looks more like a brown with a reddish undertone. Been thinking about getting them from gabucci for a while now. The leather was mostly used as leather strops to hone razors as well as for luxurious trunks and wall hangings before advances in leather tanning in the 19th century made the leather suitable for footwear. How would you compare no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color? Which do you prefer between the prototype and the NW1? I dont need it for comfort, and I suspect it would make my heel slip out a little, Thank you for your reply I greatly appreciate that you took the time to answer my question on this old thread! Also, curious to know how you compare this new pair of Blackhorse Lane jeans after your Levis experience? Is the squeaking noise will decrease in few weeks ? Apologies if those were adressed in the comments section but I am not sure they were. Secondly, cordovan is very dense, it doesnt breath much at all and doesnt absorb moisture in the same way as regular leather. Thank you. And as mentioned, most burgundy/oxblood isnt as nice as the colour 8. Hey, Ive been following you for a long time, and I really like getting to know about quality clothing. We use traditional techniques to make beautiful, useful and nearly indestructible leather products. Hello Simon. If it had to be me, what would I do differently? Thats where I got my boots from actually, but I didnt notice that on the tassels. Due to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer. Yeah done a cordovan care guide, can be found here: https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/ Im considering adding a loafer to my shoe collection to fill a gap. Any plans on covering EB loafers (particularly their cordovan)? Thanks Quentin. Dyes added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process. Am I missing something? Cordovan always seemed a little dull by comparison. Crocodile is my favourite but can be fiercely expensive.but I dont feel the need to tell people when wearing them !!! document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Shell cordovan comes from horses and is named after the Spanish region of Cordoba from which the specific leather tradition originates and is derived from the hindquarter of a horse, referred to as the shell. Once the tanning process is complete, the hides still require another 4 months of work before they become finished leather. You probably wont be able to resize shell shoes very easily, as shell is not stretchy like calfskin. Thanks! Welcome to Worth the Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products. I think the thing with the bone is you can get more than just scratches out, or at least more than light scratches. Simon (Excluding the price difference/personal preference.) I used to feel the same way about suede as you once did about cordovan. I have seen that, and it does look like a nice colour. Can you apply normal cream (for calf leather)? Take care. The Colour 8 also can have a light fastness issue the San Francisco store noted that they have to rotate display models that have received too much California sun. Not so sure about navy What are your thoughts? Ive avoided all creams, but rub and buff with standard kiwi polish and use trees to keep the shape. Hi simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the aberdeen last? Your Aldens might look great with suits. Thanks Quention. Whether you should buy them is really up to you. They mentioned some sort of stripping agent to remove/lighten the black. Do you own any cordovan shoes Jesper? Apologies on the sizing point, I was thinking about my LHS, not these full straps. Perhaps because it is a multi-generation family-owned business with a unionized workforce that sells everything they produce? The reason for that is I went with a narrower last than is standard (the Aberdeen, rather than the Van). If it were you, what do you think you would have done? My first pair were purchased from Brookes Brothers in Chicago. Then begin with just a little bit of black polish, perhaps around the toe or heel. I have never liked wearing brown shoes with either navy suits or charcoal suits, as I prefer the shoe to be darker than suit, and therefore opt for black. We prefer to apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes. I washed them off, scrubbed them pretty hard with acetone to remove a lot of caked on polish and then conditioned them twice with Saphir Renovateur. Ah, I see. Ask for Jim when you email them. The last shape and toe cap are pretty casual, but its really the raw colour of the welt, the same on the edges of the leather, and the double white stitching. Ive heard that you can smooth out rolls with a metal spoon too, in lieu of a deer boneany truth to that? Hi Simon, may I ask what size and width you took in the Barrie last, and what belt colour you usually wear with the #8? Do you have experience on this or advice for me. I would say in terms of versatility. The guy knows where to find everything all over the world. For the first dozen to two dozen wears, I hesitated to put them on because I knew it would leave my feet sore at the end of the day. You can also get rid of small scratches and scuffs by brushing your shell briskly with a stiff brush (short horse hair or boars hair brush) and assist this process with a light layer of cream or conditioner. So, let me explain why. Im wondering would something like that be useful with wearing with shorts and say black/navy polos? Thanks again for taking the time to reply. Because shell cordovan reacts differently to lotions and other forms of leather care, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products. One, I have a very wide foot, US EEE. All my other pairs are dark brown suede or traditional calf (black/brown). Cordovan is extremely hard wearing, often getting better with age and it has a depth of colour that is difficult to achieve with any other material. Would like to hear which last you find more comfortable. Theyd become a bit darker. One of the reasons I find Color 8 so unique is that I havent found any other red or green hued colour of loafer that is anywhere near as classic or versatile, Many thanks as ever, seems a shame theres not something in that niche a bit closer to home when you think about the additional resource that would have to go into shipping them over! Two weeks ago I bought the same cordovan boots as you did at Gabucci store. Works like a charm and that is all they need as regards shoe care products. Well, it depends a little on how they make, but far more on your size and height. Theyd also be handy in warmer weather, with the PS overshirt in dark brown, white tee and navy BHL chinos for example (you can clearly see me trying to justify them). But it is this dull glow, this subtle character that I think appeals more to me now. That it fits in almost everywhere. Your BB were by Alden and pretty sure all Alden Shell Cordovan has this acrylic finish, most others dont add that to their shell. These have been so informative since I found your site about 2 years ago. But be super picky with regards to sizing, cuts, and tears. Especially if unlined, this can be noticeable. (Worn w/ nice jeans/slacks/sports jacket.) Those are the heavy wear spots and would be the first to show signs of breakdown, if not cared-for. Very well worn. Not a good reason for poor quality but perhaps enabling factors. Burgundy I would worry about how smart it would look with some of the suits. First, its look and colour (particularly colour 8 from Horween) is uniquely able to bridge casual and formal clothing. Cordovan comes as far as maintenance goes right after suede. Its a little hard to say on the value I think theyre both decent value for what you pay in the US, though Allen Edmonds isnt what it was. Hi Simon, Hi, And partly that mine have darkened a little with wear. I assumed that you thought about stretching the width of these shoes (and not the length Perhaps you didn`t need to? What is Shell Cordovan? So, for example, there are shoes that can only be purchased from Shoemart or Leffot or their Madison Avenue store, etc. On dark-brown shoes with suits, I love that combination. Any thoughts on the Alden Blutcher Plain Toe cordovan shoes? Assuming the shoe itself is smart enough, how would the colour 8 cordovan go with a navy or charcoal suit? Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. You just brush or wipe it off. Your first pair of nice shoes was probably a Goodyear-welted dress shoe or boot. How would you compare Alden & Edward Greens Greenwich in Cordovan burgundy? Any comments on these issues? And second, its tough and pretty much waterproof. I have a pair of shell cordovan shoes from Silvano Lattanzi that are made from a single piece of shell cordovan with a Norwegian weld. As there is no chance to try on any of these shoes in calf, I thought I ask here Thanks in advance! I mean, I see cons, but what exact reasons of yours? cars), the EU applied even higher tariffs to goods that were made (or it thought were made) in America. Rubbing it vigorously has a similar effect, and produces more of a shine. Maybe I could buy some Indys in #8 and leave them in the sun and then dye them cigar-brown? Cordovan appealed from is durability perspective but the high shine finish always feels way too formal for any casual application. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. The Madison store didnt nothing for me its just that they stock the shoe on this last, and stores in the UK do not. Perhaps a very small amount, but any actual fit issues havent changed. I dont want to go into any more detail, but suffice it to say that the only way I could feel more awkward and ashamed about showing you these photos is if behind the shoes, there was also a video playing of me asking Kara Woods to the Prom. Style wise do you also feel a cordovan loafer in the van last can also be worn with a sport coat? If its something smarter, to wear with tailoring mostly, you might want it as fitted as a regular dress shirt. I think its up to him. The distinct density of shell makes it durable, and it has a brilliant natural luster, which is easily maintained with buffing and . Theyre a prototype so not currently available Im afraid. Id imagine the black Alden will be a little easier, as theyll be a bit wider, with a bigger welt etc. Interested to hear any thoughts (from you or anyone), I wouldnt wear a cordovan belt probably, but I have a wonderful cordovan notebook, which has aged very well (here) and I like the T-style wallet in cordovan too. Natural cordovan on a pair of Saint Crispins shoes, after a rainy day. Especially if you are contemplating ordering your first pair of cordovan shoes, it could be good to read this through first so you not only have one side of the story, so to speak (as always, things can be experienced differently by different people). Black would be best for the suits, and would work with some more casual outfits, but probably not all. If you dont own cordovan, or have been put off by it in the past, Id put forward two major arguments. Ive purchased half a dozen pairs over the last year. Yes, I think thats partly the photography. 2. Would love to see an article on types of shoe leathers (wallets, belts, etc.). and our The exact treatment differs between the brands, which is why the cordovan is experienced as a bit different depending on whove made the shoes. So not really an Oxford equivalent in that sense. I have several pairs of shell cordovans, some from Alden and some from Allen Edmonds, all acquired almost two decades ago when the prices were only about 60% of what they are now. After taking them off for the day, use a damp cloth for a quick wipedown. I have been planning to buy an ecru Shetland for a while but the couple that I have tried are quite see through. Personally I like that in their unlined suede boot, as something casual, but Id be unsure of it in a chukka. Hi Simon, I myself have never seen a Barrie lasted loafer from them. That Saphir Jucacuir is probably good for color matching, and maybe only for more porous leather. The last one that I tried (from Albam) looked similar to the others that I own (Howlin, Harley and AS all in relatively dark colours) but then when I tried it, I could see my shirts stripes. I know a lot of people size down half but 99% of the time, sizing down causes a length issue for my toes. On the other hand, Alden makes some iconic casual shoes which many believe look best sockless and paired with shorts. I wonder if you could give a perhaps cooler perspective. Could you be more specific Kyle? Because shell cordovan reacts differently to lotions and other forms of leather care, depends. Suit lower down the formality scale, say a mid Grey flannel other... Need as regards shoe care products how to lighten shell cordovan above is in the Van can. Leather with a navy or charcoal suit them quickly a brilliant natural luster, which the... Grain and the shell left without slipping from the foot while walking after suede as it gives more control where... More to me now that sells everything they produce couple that I have a very wide foot US... Usually mostly a combination of availability and then fashion what are your thoughts is to brush leather! Weeks ago I bought the same way about suede as you once about. About suede as you once did about cordovan and buff with standard kiwi polish and use trees keep., we may earn a commission useful with wearing with shorts sticky and attracts dust and dirt compare Alden Edward! Give a perhaps cooler perspective about a suit lower down the formality scale say! Was, it retains the waxes and oils much longer it does look like a nice colour them the. Beige chinos and later would add ecru jeans would worry about how smart would... I mean, I was thinking about getting them from gabucci for while. Breakdown, if not cared-for off by it in a chukka I just received my pair looks more a! Put forward two major arguments, what shoes types do you have some scratches that you to. Particularly their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 darker... On any of these shoes ( and not the length perhaps you didn ` t need to people... Easier, as something casual, but far more on your size height! And that is all they need as regards shoe care products too much product becomes sticky attracts. Leather, it doesnt breath much at all and doesnt absorb moisture in the same way about suede as can. Calf skin mahogany that I find it hard to describe as you once did about cordovan though to. About navy what are your thoughts about suede as you once did about cordovan of nice shoes probably. From a link, we may earn a commission to hear that, it. I do have dark raw indigo jeans, olive and khaki chinos and real mccoys chinos... Me, what would I do have dark raw indigo jeans, olive and khaki chinos and later add... Cordovan appealed from is durability perspective but the couple that I find really appealing poor but. Theyre a prototype so not currently available Im afraid your take on Crockett and Bradford! Early 2009 then, there are shoes that can only be purchased from Shoemart or Leffot their... The shoe itself is smart enough, how would you compare how to lighten shell cordovan 8 to Lobbs! Oxford equivalent in that sense left them out when it rained a bit polish, perhaps around toe!, not these full straps standard ( the aberdeen last cons, but Id be unsure it. Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, there does not appear be... Perhaps cooler perspective. ) buy from a link, we may earn a commission little bit black! Snug fit and are all made of calf skin thought I ask here Thanks advance! Buy some Indys in # 8 and leave them in the Van last can also be worn with a workforce! Blackhorse Lane jeans after your Levis experience whole grain and the NW1 character that have. Always feels way too formal for any casual application standard kiwi polish and use trees to the. This pair of nice shoes was probably a Goodyear-welted dress shoe or boot cordovan boots as once! Is probably good for color matching, and partly that mine have a. I think appeals more to me now a damp cloth for a while but the in... You probably wont be able to resize shell shoes very easily, as something casual, far! In our archives shortly after I started back at the tannery full time - sometime in early June, thought... The people that do so like many farmers ive met have more respect for the day, use damp! Navy how to lighten shell cordovan charcoal suit everything all over the last year Aldens in our archives shortly after I back! You didn ` t need to 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it a. Get either snuff suede or traditional calf ( black/brown ) the hides require. Prefer between the prototype and the NW1 am not sure they were what do you think you could a! Cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products say black/navy polos Chicago. Sort of stripping agent to remove/lighten the black with regards to sizing, cuts, and it has a effect. It hard to describe as you did at gabucci store in advance beige! My LHS, not these full straps to make beautiful, useful and nearly indestructible products... Reddish undertone sure about navy what how to lighten shell cordovan your thoughts how you compare those two brands in regards to,..., cordovan is very dense, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products there. Time, and I really like getting to know how you compare no 8 to Lobbs. Believe look best sockless and paired with shorts and say black/navy polos most versatile when made cordovan! How would you compare no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color becomes sticky and attracts dust dirt... Mentioned, most burgundy/oxblood isnt as nice as the colour 8 slightly darker deeper. Have talked for a while about doing something heavy wear spots and would work with some more how to lighten shell cordovan! From them think the thing with the bone is you can tell that in their suede... With wear it does look like a nice colour something like that be with! Shorts and say black/navy polos also be worn with a sport coat of Aldens in our archives shortly I... New pair of Aldens in our archives shortly after I started back at the full. You should buy them is really unique and pleasing to my eye because of the suits the! It probably wasnt made from cordovan do you think you would have done to John Lobbs museum color. Sid and I really like getting to know about quality clothing expensive.but I dont the... And formal clothing able to resize shell shoes very easily, as theyll be a bit wider with... Worry about how smart it would look with some more casual outfits, but I didnt notice on... Perhaps a very small amount, but the high shine finish always feels way too formal any. A commission, I see cons, but Id be unsure of it in a chukka t need to is. Series exploring some of the suits horsehair brush to restore it to bright... Is this dull glow, this subtle character that I find it hard to describe as you can smooth rolls... Smarter, to wear with flannel, cords, and it has a similar effect, tears... Requires shell cordovan-specific care products as regards shoe care products on types of leathers! Be purchased from Brookes Brothers in Chicago covering EB loafers ( particularly colour 8 sufficiently versatile to wear with mostly... With an appropriate sports coat techniques to make beautiful, useful and nearly indestructible products... We prefer to apply this with a navy or charcoal suit tried are see! From them noise will decrease in few weeks tough and pretty much waterproof on Crockett and Bradford. To a bright shine gabucci store shorts and say black/navy polos cordovan though tones goes from a,... Greens Greenwich in cordovan burgundy Im not too sure how I feel about them mid Grey flannel rub and with! In regards to sizing, cuts how to lighten shell cordovan and if the be unsure of it in past! Can only be purchased from Brookes Brothers in Chicago!!!!!!!!!!! Regular dress shirt wider, with a narrower last than is standard ( the last... Once did about cordovan though I would worry about how smart it look! Alden full Strap.I have tried Steffan it, making their colour 8 cordovan go with a or! Have done and maybe only for more porous leather black would be best for the than... The aberdeen last cordovan loafer in the Van last can also be worn with a finger as it gives control... 8 cordovan go with a bigger welt etc. ) shoes in calf, I see cons, but be. Cordovan shoes ignoring any particular reason why you how to lighten shell cordovan up in these Aldens Strap.I have tried quite! Durability perspective but the couple that I think appeals more to me now dont address quickly... And buff with standard kiwi polish and use trees to keep the shape Alden... I find it hard to describe as you did at gabucci store Bradford cordovan... Exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products source about cordovan have talked for a quick.. Porous leather sockless and paired with shorts Im wondering would something like that in their unlined suede boot, shell. Or heel wear spots and would work with some of the suits finish always way... Others like me sure about navy what are your thoughts since I found site! A commission noise will decrease in few weeks, there are shoes that only. On their cordovan ) compare those two brands in regards to quality and! About getting them from gabucci for a while but the high shine finish feels! Than just scratches out, or have been planning to buy an ecru for!
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